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Principles of Waves, Fluids and Thermodynamics

Wave Properties and the Wave Equation

Physics I 250 words Free to read

Do the stadium wave: you stand up and sit down, yet "the wave" races around the stadium. Nothing material travels — what moves is a pattern, carrying energy and information while the medium merely wiggles in place. That decoupling of stuff from signal is the essence of every wave.

A wave is a disturbance that transfers energy without transferring matter.

The wave equation:

2yx2=1v22yt2\frac{\partial^2 y}{\partial x^2} = \frac{1}{v^2}\frac{\partial^2 y}{\partial t^2}

Travelling wave solution:

y(x,t)=Asin(kxωt+ϕ)y(x,t) = A\sin(kx - \omega t + \phi)

ParameterSymbolRelation
AmplitudeAAMaximum displacement
Wave numberkkk=2π/λk = 2\pi/\lambda
Angular frequencyω\omegaω=2πf\omega = 2\pi f
Speedvvv=fλ=ω/kv = f\lambda = \omega/k
PeriodTTT=1/f=2π/ωT = 1/f = 2\pi/\omega

Types of waves

Energy in a wave — The intensity (power per unit area) of a wave is:

I=12ρvω2A2I = \frac{1}{2}\rho v \omega^2 A^2

Intensity drops as 1/r21/r^{2} for a point source (inverse-square law).

Physics link: The wave equation appears everywhere — strings, sound, light, quantum mechanics. The solutions always have the same structure: oscillation in space and time.
Common pitfall: Wave speed is a property of the medium (tension, density, temperature), not of the source. Shaking a rope harder makes taller waves, not faster ones — only changing the rope itself changes vv.
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Principles of Waves, Fluids and Thermodynamics